Red Velvet Cake

This is from the Washington Post, they had a full article on Red Velvet Cake. Like in many families my mother used to make RVC occasionally. I remember loving it as a child but as I write this it has probably been close to fifty years since I've had it. My sister was trying to find my mother's original recipe for it a few weeks ago, but last I knew was not able to do so.

The Washington Post article has some discussion of potential origins of the cake's signature color. Candidates include the use of "raw" cocoa in the late 1800's which combined with buttermilk to create a maroon hue, or the emergence of red food coloring in the late 1930's, or even the use of grated beets or beet juice during world war rationing or the Great Depression. The recipe includes instructions on how to use beet juice instead of food coloring "for some semblance of added nutrition.". There's nothing more utterly pathetic than someone who thinks a cake overloaded with sugar, butter, oil, cream cheese, more butter and even more sugar can be made the slightest bit "healthy" by adding beet juice.

Regarding the Washington Post article, this is sort of a rant: The article was published around the timeframe that Juneteenth was being considered for a national holiday (which it now is), and the article almost exclusively discusses what the cake represents to the Black community, with plenty of quotes from Black chefs, Black restauranteurs, Black cookbook authors, Black culinary historians, etc. Reading the article would give you the impression that RVC originated in, and came out, of southern Black cuisine - but upon re-reading you will notice the article doesn't actually explicitly make that claim. In fact buried deep in the article in a single sentence they admit that no researchers "have uncovered much evidence of its roots in Black communities." Basically the article is clearly written to give readers the impression that this is "Black American food" while avoiding saying that directly. I'm not a fan of articles deliberately written to be misleading. It may be very popular historically among the Black community - but RVC is not an outgrowth of Black American cuisine and is absolutely not in any way "Black American food". It is simply an American cake.

NOTES: For best results, use finely granulated sugar such as Florida Crystals, Domino or C&H. Some brands have larger crystals, which may require a longer creaming time. If you’re concerned about crumbs in your frosting, you can first apply a thin coating, called a crumb coat, and let it chill before applying the rest of the frosting.

You may bake the cake in three 8-inch pans: Each pan will get about 500 grams of batter and take about 30 minutes to bake. You may also bake it in two 9-inch pans, but the layers will be somewhat shorter. You may also bake this batter into 24 cupcakes: Line a standard muffin tins with paper cupcake liners and fill each with 1/3 to 1/2 cup (approximately 60 grams) of batter. Bake at 325 degrees for 20 to 22 minutes, or until each cupcake springs back when lightly poked. Cool completely in pans set on a wire rack before frosting. (Note from Joe - I'm pretty sure Mom made this as a sheet cake - an alternative they didn't even list here!)

Ingredients

For the Cake:

Oil or softened butter, for greasing pans
2 1/2 cups (315 grams) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (20 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 1/2 cups (355 milliliters) well-shaken buttermilk or beet juice, or a 50-50 blend of the two, at room temperature
2 tablespoons to 1/4 cup (30 to 60 milliliters/one to two 1-ounce bottles) liquid red food coloring, such as McCormick brand (optional if using beet juice)
2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar (see NOTES)
1 stick (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened but cool to the touch
1/2 cup (120 milliliters) neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
4 large eggs, at room temperature

For the Frosting:

1 pound (455 grams) cream cheese, at room temperature
2 sticks (225 grams) unsalted butter, softened but cool to the touch
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 1/2 cups (540 grams) confectioners’ sugar
Crushed pecans, for decorating (optional)

Instructions

1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Grease two 8-inch cake pans and line the bottoms with parchment paper (see NOTES).

2. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa, baking soda and salt.

3. In a 2-cup liquid measuring cup or small bowl, combine the buttermilk or beet juice and red food coloring, if using.

4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment — or, if using a hand-mixer, in a large bowl — combine the sugar, butter and oil. Beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes, stopping to scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl to ensure the mixture is evenly creamed. Reduce the mixer speed to medium-low and add the vanilla, followed by the eggs, one at a time, beating until each is emulsified into the batter before adding another. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl as needed, and after the last egg is added, mix until no streaks remain, but no longer than another 20 seconds to avoid beating too much extra air into the batter.

5. With the mixer on low speed, add about half of the buttermilk mixture — carefully, as it may splash — and allow it to fully emulsify into the batter. With the mixer running, sprinkle in half of the flour mixture, followed by the remaining buttermilk mixture. Stop to scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl as needed and add the remaining flour mixture. Increase the speed to medium and mix until just a few streaks remain, no longer than 15 seconds. Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a rubber spatula, fold the batter, ensuring it is evenly mixed and no streaks or lumps remain. Do not overmix, or your cake will be dense and tough.

6. Divide the batter between the cake pans; each pan should get about 750 grams of batter. Using a small offset spatula or spoon, level the batter in each pan. Grasp each pan by the rim on opposite sides, lift it up about 3 inches and drop it onto the counter 2 or 3 times to release any large air bubbles.

7. Bake the cakes for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the cakes pull away from the sides of the pan and the top springs back when lightly pressed or a skewer inserted in the center comes out with a few moist crumbs.

8. Let cakes cool in their pans on a wire rack for 20 minutes, then run a thin knife around the edge and gently invert onto a wire rack. Remove the pans and parchment and allow the cakes to cool upside-down, for at least 2 hours, before cutting or frosting. To make it easier to frost the cake, you may wrap cooled cake layers airtight and freeze for 30 minutes (or up to 3 months). (If you let cakes cool completely in their pans, they may become damp.)

9. Make the frosting: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment — or, if using a hand-mixer, in a large bowl — combine the cream cheese, butter, vanilla and salt. Beat on medium to medium-high speed until well combined and fluffy, about 1 minute. Turn the mixer off, and add 1 cup of the confectioners’ sugar. Starting on low speed and increasing to medium, beat to combine, then turn the mixer off. Add the remaining confectioners’ sugar, 1 cup or so at a time, and beat, starting on low and increasing to medium, until the frosting is fluffy and begins to stiffen, about 2 minutes, scraping down the sides as needed. Cover and refrigerate the frosting for at least 1 hour or until ready to use.

10. Assemble the cake: If the frosting has stiffened, beat it briefly, by hand or using the paddle attachment on your mixer, until it’s fluffy and spreadable. Lay one cake layer on a plate or platter and top with about 1 1/2 cups of the frosting. Spread the frosting into an even layer, then top with the second cake layer. Coat the top and sides of the cake with the remaining frosting, starting with a crumb coat (see NOTES), if desired. Decorate with the pecans if desired.